It was very exciting and we went to bed, setting the alarm
for 3.00am, to hit the road by 4am.
The alarm went off, quick shower and final check, scooping
the kids up and putting them in the car. We were on the road at 4.05am, heading
for Dalby, to meet with our travelling friends, Daz, Bec and their four
children, Lachlan, Brayden, Jasmine and Nathaniel, as well as Paul & Nat,
their children, Ethan, Bailey and Leeia.
We pulled into Dalby and straight to Maccas for breakfast,
saying a very warm hello to our friends. A leisurely chat and we were off
heading west, well that was until, we were Daz, thought we were going to
Roma. Nat and I quick on the UHF,
brought him into line and pointing him towards Cunnamulla.
Lunch was at St George on the Ballone River, which was very
pretty. The kids played along the river to get rid of a bit of cabin
fever.
We were not sure were the first night was go to be, but
about 4pm, we hit Nebin Creek, just east of Cunnamulla. We were all tired and decided to free camp
there the night. The toilets were not that clean, so we headed over to the
creek and set up camp.
Quick set up and beers all round. Great time. Kids were
running wild, collecting fire wood and having some fun.
St George
Next day we headed for
Thargamindah, not sure again where camp was going to be. Deb found a free camp at Noccundra on the
Wilson River. We pulled in, quick set up
and most of us striped off for a swim. Well the water was very refreshing, I
can tell you. The free showers were a short drive away, next to the Noccundra
Hotel.
Our back yard for a night. The water was very cold, but didn't stop us from going for a swim.
It was a great place to camp and I could have stayed there a
few nights.
We followed the road to Innamincka, passing through the gas
and oil fields. They are a sight to behold. There are oil wells pumping
everywhere. It was very interesting.
Road trains also a regular occurrence.
One particular road train sprayed both Nat & Paul and Daz and Becs
cars with rock, causing cracks in both windscreens. They were not very happy.
Just East of Innaminka, we crossed the Queensland/South
Australian Border. We stopped for the
usual photographs, all posing for the camera.
We had been given some good information about camping at
Cullyamurra water hole on Cooper Creek.
We all drove into the spot, only to see there was no access to the creek
due to a lot of green weed/bushes growing out from the bank. We decided to continue toward Innamincka and
visit the Bourke and Wills Dig tree on the way.
I had studied these explorers at school, but it was disappointing to
hear that these explorers are not being taught in our schools today. It was
very interesting reading, how Bourke and Wills missed being saved by only a
matter of hours. The three blazers on the main tree are almost
grown over, with the face tree carving still very evident.
Lunch was had close by with the thousands of flies that we
have been told are unseasonal.
After lunch we hit Innamincka, speaking to a few locals who
directed out to the Policeman Water Hole, a few kilometres out of town.
Innamincka was a like a little metropolis in the middle of
now where. There would have been 15-20
car lined up at the fuel bowers to fill up, grey nomads and their Winnebago’s
came and went from the centre of town. A couple of road trains, maneuverer
their way through the unsuspecting traffic.
We arrived at the Policeman’s Water hole and could not
believe our luck. There was nobody camping there and we had access straight
onto Coopers Creek. We quickly set up
camp and we all jumped into the creek for a swim to wash off all the dust.
The kids loved the water and really came alive after two
long days in the cars
Paul was the first to get out his fishing rod and give the
fishing a go. The kids also found lots
of fresh water muscles in the mud, where we were swimming. Paul, who likes his bush tucker, suggested cooking
up some of the muscles before we leave, so we could try them. Both Dazza and I were hesitant, but agreed.
That night was finished off with a few beers watching the
sun go down over Cooper Creek.
The following day, we all went into Innamincka to look at
the cultural centre and the historic Innamincka Hotel.
The cultural centre took you through how Innamincka was
established back in the 1800’s on the back of local farmers. It was very interesting and those people who
first came to this area to establish the community must have been very tough
and resilient.
Off to the local pub, saw another insight into local life.
The walls are covered in historic photographs of past celebrations, floods and
personalities.
After this, we drove out to Bourke’s former Grave site,
which was on the Cooper Creek, a few kilometres out of town. I initially thought this was where Bourke was
buried, but on reading some information at the sight, found out he had died
near a large Coolabah Tree, with King nearby.
Bourke had asked King to stay with him until his death, but then once he
had died to leave his body to the elements.
King buried Bourke under the Coolabah tree. He was rescued several
months later by a team looking for him.
King had survived with help from the local Aboriginals. Bourke’s body was exhumed several months
later, returned to Melbourne, where he was given a State Funeral.
That afternoon we were back at the Policeman’s Water hole
and having a great time, swimming and relaxing, until Bailey, Paul & Nat’s
boy, cut his foot on either glass or broken muscle shell. Well it was all hands on deck with clean
water to wash his foot and then anti-bacterial wash to clean the wound. A few well-placed
sterie strips and the foot was bandaged.
That afternoon saw a few more beers and wine consumed, with
a few fish caught including, Cat fish, Yellow Belly and a Turtle, which was
released.
The Yellow belly was cleaned and wrapped in foil before
being placed in the coals of the fire to cook. It wasn’t too bad, but a little
muddy tasting.
Paul also convinced us to try some bush tucker, including seeds he had collected and also fresh water muscles.
Paul also convinced us to try some bush tucker, including seeds he had collected and also fresh water muscles.
The following morning saw us say good bye to a great camp
spot on the Cooper. Innamincka saw a fuel up and head for Cameron Corner via
the Old Strzelecki Road. This road,
being dirt, was very good. We made good time, hitting Corner Country about
lunch time. What we noted, was how dry it was out here. All the dams were dry, with only the artisan
bores in operation.
Cameron Corner
There was very little shade at Cameron Corner, with all the
kids huddling under the shade of one tree.
After lunch we headed back out towards the Strzelecki Track bound for
Montecolina Bore.
As we continued down the Strez, it continued to be dry, with
little to no road kill, which was the opposite of the trip out to Innamincka,
where there were roo’s and emus that had been hit cars and trucks.
We arrived at Montecolina Bore, which is a capped bore,
supplying a large dam with water. The
area was quite dry, with only small shrubs.
We set up camp quickly and went over to the bore. The water was fairly clear, beautiful and
cool, but where the bore water entered the dam, we estimated it was about 40’c,
just warm enough to lie in the coolness of the main dam, with warm water
flowing over your shoulders. It was a great afternoon.
The kids all were playing tiggy in the shallows, followed by
running and jumping into the deeper parts of the dam. It was a refreshing afternoon playing.
As usual, we are up early next morning, packed and on our
way to Lyndhurst for fuel and a rubbish dump, as we always take our own rubbish
out of our camp sites, unless there are bins provided.
Whilst at Lyndhurst, I had read and seen a TV coverage of a
local guy, called Talc Alf, who carves designs into chunks of talc that are
mined nearby. His place was not far out
of Lyndhurst, so we drove out following the signs as we went. When we arrived,
Talc Alf was never to be seen, but his works were on display. Some of these carvings were amazing. It was a shame, he wasn’t around as the kids
and adults enjoyed what he was making.
It would have been to ask a few questions as well as purchase a carving
or two.
Lyndhurst is where we joined the old Ghan Railway Line,
following it north.
One of the many road trains that we passed on the trip. When one of these three trailer trucks is coming at you on dirt, you need to get off the road as quickly as you can.
A drive up to Maree, where he had lunch. Maree was very
quiet, a few cars at the local pub and a lady getting the net ball courts ready
for a game.
Just outside Maree, is the Lake Eyre Yacht Club, which is a short distance to the iconic lake.
On the way to Maree, we saw the statue to Maree Man, which I
believe was a farmer who ploughed a large picture of a man into the ground,
which could be seen from the air. We
also went past Plan Hendge, which is paddock full of art designs, as you can
see from the pictures.
After lunch, we went to Farina Ruins. These ruins are slowly
being revitalised with the help of donations and peoples times.
We walked around the ruins taking plenty of
photographs. Melissa grabbed me and
pointed to building off in the distance, indicating it was the old police
station. So off we went to investigate,
swatting flies away as we walked. On
looking at the building, I thought how hard it would have been to work in the
middle of nowhere. The only exception
was the Ghan Railway line running outside the town. In World War 2, it was estimated 50 troop
trains travelled through Farina every week, with troop and machinery movements.
The last three photographs are of the 'new' police station at Farina. It was fascinating to read how these police officers would patrol thousands of kilometres for months on end.
We continued to follow the track to Coward Springs, where we
made camp for the night. Coward Springs
cost $12 per adult and $6 per child.
There is a donkey shower, which is fed by the spring water, but you need
to heat it yourself, but keeping a fire under an old gas bottle to heat the
water.
There were also flushing toilets and a great outlook.
We pulled the vehicle up in an area to camp, with all the
kids getting out running around. It was
not long, with Nate (Nathanial – Daz & Bec’s youngest) was yelling
snake. All the adults came running over
to see a 1.5m brown snake, slithering amongst the twigs, right beside our camp
spot. All the guys were looking at each
other, as to what to do and WHO was going to do it. At that point the snake took a liking to
Dazz’s Patrol and slid underneath,
trying to get up into his front brake lines, before slithering straight
across the middle of our camp. No more
was said, but the snake was removed from our camp, with quite a few anxious
adults and children.
A quick inspection of the local museum and we were off to
the spring. Coward Springs has a nice
little spring pool, made from old, I suggest, Ghan Railway sleepers. The pool would be about 6 x 6 feet, so it was
a challenge to fit everybody in. The only way was to have adults first and then
the kids got in. The water was beautiful
and fed straight from the spring.
After this, it was back to camp and sort dinner, whilst some
got the donkey shower working.
Next morning we left, heading for Coober Pedy along the start of the Oodnadatta Track. First stop
was William Creek and as the girls discovered some great coffee from the pub.
It was coffee all round, with the first decent one in many days.
William Creek has a number of space exploration exhibits from the Woomera Range.
Dazza had a squeak in his front end, so we took the time to find it, which we did. My Patrol was starting to heat up, so I was monitoring it. It wasn’t extreme, but I was erring on the side of caution, to get new coolant in Coober Pedy.
Dazza had a squeak in his front end, so we took the time to find it, which we did. My Patrol was starting to heat up, so I was monitoring it. It wasn’t extreme, but I was erring on the side of caution, to get new coolant in Coober Pedy.
The run into Coober Pedy was straighter forward, running
through some magical red sand dunes. We
arrived that afternoon at Riba’s Caravan Park.
We could have camped underground here, but we could get the Campers in
there, due to their height, so we camped under some man made shade cloth
areas. It was an early dinner at John
Pizza & Paste and I can recommend this if anybody is travelling through the
town. It was very good food and
reasonable cost.
After Dinner, we headed back to the camp, where we had a
mine tour booked for 7pm. See, the
caravan park where we were staying used to be an operating opal mine. We met Ric at 7pm and he took us through the
process of mining opals. He had been mining opals for the past 20 years. He was a bit eccentric and not a bad mine
tour. During the tour, he showed us all
how to use divining rods to assist in locating opal. I was very sceptical how these worked, until
I tried it myself. Wow, it really worked and the look on mine and others faces
was priceless.
The following day, saw me flush the radiator with a lot of water,
before filling it with new coolant. Crossed fingers and I hope that works.
We headed into Coober Pedy for coffee and Cake at the
underground café, before girls hit nearly every opal store in Coober Pedy,
looking for that one special opal.
After, I don’t know how many, they all found what they were looking
for. The boys and kids were very thankful,
it didn’t take any more time.
That afternoon, we headed out to the Breakaways, which was
about 35 km’s from town. They looked impressive, but for one thing, FLIES. I have never in my life seen so many flies in
on place. The wind was blowing, which
caused the flies to fly to the opposite side of my body, where they were
bumping into me as they flew. My arms,
hat and back were covered with them.
Here are a few pics of the Dazza and Paul covered in flies.
The Breakaways
The Breakaways
and the flies
After we came back from the Breakaways, there were so many flies;
we retired to the underground games room, where it was happy hour with drinks
and nibbles, to discuss our next leg of the journey.
The following morning we packed up and headed North towards
Alice Springs, but taking the scenic route via Arkaringa Station, which is a
farm stay. We stopped at Cadney Park for
fuel and a lunch, before heading to Arkaringa Station and the Painted
Desert. The scenary along the way was
breath taking. The hills and mountains
changed colour every time you turned a corner.
We drove around one corner and hanging, dead, from a post was a dingo, which
we later ascertained was a cross wild dog, which had been bringing down and
killing calves. The dingo had been shot
by one of the farmers and was put there as a warning, as there are a number of
farmers who choose not to shoot wild dogs/dingos.
We arrived at Arkaringa Station and was warming greeted by
Lauren, who was on one of her last days before leaving the station. She was a great source of information. Quick set up and a further chat to Lauren,
where we bought her chutney , before setting off to the Painted Desert, about
11km’s away. These mountains show all
colours from whites, oranges, reds, browns and blacks. Put them against the blue back ground of the
desert sky and it was amazing.
We hiked two the top of the first mountain, where we took a
lot of photographs and the surrounding area, before watching the sun go down
over the Painted Desert having a cold ale.
Great afternoon was had by all.
The following morning, we hit the road again, heading
towards Oodnadatta. This was going to be
a highlight for all of us, but more for Nat.
We walked into the Pink Road house to feel the cool breeze of an air
conditioner, with a lot of staff everywhere.
We then found out it was handover of the Famous Road House from its
previous owner, Lynnie, to the new owners.
Lynnie had been working the road house with her husband, Adam for 38
years, until his tragic death in a rally last year. Both Lynnie and Adam are icons of the area. We ordered coffee and looked around the
roadhouse as the many photographs. The
coffee wasn’t too bad. I obtained the
key to the local museum and we walked a short distance, across the Old Ghan
line, where the museum is situated in the old rail station. This was exciting. The local community have put together a great
display of history of the area, capturing the local aboriginals, through to the
stockman, farms and local town folk. Well
worth a visit. Get the key from the Pink Road House.
We returned to the pink road house for lunch, having the
Oddna Burger, which is a burger with the works, including egg and
pineapple. It was worth the money.
Fuelled up once more we continued up the Oodnadatta Track
towards Mt Dare, but then veering towards Finke. We crossed a section of track between
Hamilton and Eringa, which was a no man’s land.
There was a whole lot of nothing. No trees, rough as can be and hot.
We arrived at the South Australian/Northern Territory Border
to see a a border sign that had been put there by Lyn and Adam Plate,
stipulating we were at the border. We didn’t
see any other signs indicating we had crossed over into the Territory.
We arrived at Eringa
Ruins, to a dry creek bed, but a very pretty spot. We considered staying here, but as it was
only 3pm, we decided to continue on and get to Lamberts – Geographical Centre
of Australian Main Land. The road
continued to be rough until we reached Finke.
It was a long day and we finally made Lamberts, which was a pretty spot
in the middle of nowhere. A quick set up
and Noodle cups for dinner saw us in bed not long after.
The following morning, we did the obligatory photographs at
the centre of Australia. Wrote in the visitors
book and then we hit the road for Chambers Pillar, following the Finke Desert
Race Course. The patrol was still
heating up, so I was taking it very easy.
Dazza then called up and said he had a flat, we were about 5
km’s behind, but on arrival, I saw that something had shredded the side wall of
his tyre. I drove on, as the boys would catch up to me fairly quickly. We drove through Maryvale, headed for
Chambers Pillar. We collected some fire wood and drove up the step track to the
ridge overlooking Chambers Pillar, then came the fateful call over the UHF from
Nat. We gotta stop and then it was
confirmed, they had broken a spring in their trailer. We turned around and headed back to find both
Dazza and Paul working on Pau’sl trailer, pulling the spring out. There were a
few curse words said, but it was decided we would all head into Alice Springs,
with Paul, Dazza and the two eldest boys going ahead to buy a new spring, return
to the trailer, install and return to Alice.
This is the closest we got to Chambers Pillar- Photographed from the ridge
I rang a Radiator specialist and explained what was
happening with the patrol and over heating. I had it booked in for
Thursday. It ended up being not enough oil
in the viscous hub of the fan, so the fan was not turning when it should, so it was a relatively
cheap fix.
Also, we had that much dust and dirt over the trucks, we all
decided to give them a rinse off at the local car wash, every thing was going
well, all the dust was being washed down the drain, but then I started the car,
and ‘pop’ the rear barn door window just shattered. No one new how or why, but
then talking to the local O’briens dealer, he said it happens quite often,
where there may have been a little chip, which there was, and when you hit the
glass with water/different temps, the glass shatters. Oh well, got the window replaced quickly and
all is good again.
Over the next few days, we shopped at Alice and went to the Desert
Park, which I thought was fantastic. If
you are ever in Alice Springs, it is a must to visit. We all learnt a lot about bush survival and
foods. Paul is a made keen bush food man
and was going around taking pictures of all the different bush foods that had
been shown to us.
Another highlight at the park was a photo op with Aurora or
Rory as he is call, a 3 year old Wedge Tail eagle, which he park has. Rory was pushed out of his nest when he was
young, breaking his wing. He was rescued and brought up at the park, where he
now does displays.
We also saw two 13 week old dingos, Mala and Digger, which
were acquired from a Dingo rescue group in the Blue Mountains. The handler allowed them to walk amongst us,
smelling our hands. They were very
curious, just like puppies.
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