Sunday 18 May 2014

Highlights and fuel price - Epic Red Centre Expedition

Our final intinery was different to our inital plan.

Camping spots.

Nebine Creek, East of Cunnumulla - No facilities. (Shown on Wikkicamps)
Wilson River, near Noccundra (Very nice spot on the Wilson River) Short walk/drive to toilets/showers
Innaminka - Policemans Water Hole. Toilet only. This was a fantastic spot. Highly recommended.
Montacolina Bore - On Strzelecki Track.  Another Highly recommended spot. No facilities.
Coward Springs - This was okay, but for the price, we thought it could have been better.
Riba’s Caravan Park - 5km south of Coober Pedy. Nice spot out of town. Recommended.
Arkaringa Station Farm Stay - Painted Desert. Another great spot.
Lamberts Centre of Australia - Nice spot. Toilets. 
G'day Mate - Caravan Park - Alice Springs. Highly Recommended and reasonable price.
Yulara (Uluru)Caravan Park. Very hard ground. Bent pegs getting them in. 
Kings Canyon Resort - Ok. Not as commercial as Uluru.
Orimston Gorge - Very small main camping area. Secondary (schools) camping area, double the size, very rocky, dusty and hard ground.
Ellery Big Hole (We didnt stay here, but small camping area, dusty and rocky) 
Bon Bon Rest Area - 200km South Coobery Pedy. Toilet only. Ground very hard and open.
Peterborough Rest Area. Just East of the town. No facilities. Flat, grassed and nice.
Penrose Park, Silverton outside Broken Hill. Highly recommended. All facilities. Large open spaces with lots trees.
Rest Area - 5km West Warren. No facilities. Flat, semi grassed.


Highlights.

Innaminka - The history and Policemans Water hole.
Monacolina Bore - Great rest and swim.
Talc Alf - Lydnhurst - Worth a visit.
Coober Pedy - Great town. 
Arkaringa Station - Close to Painted Desert. Watch the sun going down over the colourfull hills, sipping on a beer or wine.
Oodnadatta - Yes - Just for the history. Must visit the local museum.
Lamberts Centre of Australia - Just because you are so close. A must, just once. 
Alice Springs - Great town. really enjoyed it and its people.
Desert Park - Alice Springs
Uluru, but Kata Tjuta is more magical. Watching the sun going down.
Yulara - Town of Uluru. Great. Lots of activities for the kids.
Camel Ride - Uluru. A very must. Highly recommended.
Orimston Gorge - very pretty 
Penrose Park - Silverton. Well worth camping at.
Silverton. Highly recommended. We thought the visit would take an hour, we were there for half a day and could have spent longer there.


Vehicle and Camper Trailer.

Vehicle : 2010 GU Patrol, 3L TD CRD, 285 BFG Mud Terrain, 2 inch lift, roof rack carrying boxes with spares and max trax. (No other mods)

Camper Trailer : 2010 Lifestyle Extenda 4x4 CT. Approx pack weight 1400kg

Km's travelled : 8455km
Fuel used :  1515 Litres Diesel
Fuel Cost : $2,467.95

Average L/100km : 17.92 L/100

Diesel Prices.

Dalby - $1.559
St George - $1.629
Cunnamulla - $1.699
Thargomindah - $1.879
Innaminka - $2.099
Lyndhurst - $1.829
Coober Pedy - $1.779
Cadney Homestead (Stuart Hwy) $1.989
Oodnadatta - $2.22
Alice Springs - $1.759
Erldunda - Stuart Hwy - Turn off to Uluru - $2.089
Yalara (Uluru) - $2.26
Kings Canyon - $2.33
GleN Helen Resort - $2.22 (West McDonald Ranges)
Marla Stuart Hwy - $2.02
Port Augusta - $1.59.9
Broken Hill - $1.619
Cobar - $1.669
Gunadah - $1.619
 
 

Sunday 6 October 2013

Alice Springs and we are heading home via Broken Hill.


After visiting the gorges, we arrive in Alice Springs (G’day Mate Caravan Park) that afternoon, setting up camp and going shopping for some essentials.  The sun was still very hot so it was back to camp and straight to the swimming pool in the Caravan Park.

That night we spoke about way we were going to head home.  Initially we were heading back via Tennant Creek, Barkley Highway, Mt Isa and then down, but it appears there is a heat wave up there, hitting low 40’s, so it was decided to head south, down to Port Augusta and across.

The following day was he final shop before we all headed South and across to the Eastern States.  ON our way back from shopping, we called into the Royal Flying Doctor Service at Alice.  It was a pretty new building, encompassing the old building.  For a small cost, you could watch a film on the RFDS and its history, as well as a tour of their local museum.  The girls enjoying role playing in the cockpit of a replica RFDS plane, which is in their building.  They both donned the ear muffs and grabbed the control stick, playing games of rescuing people who had been hurt.

We then visited the Alice Springs Gaol, where there was exhibition depicting The Australian Women’s Hall Of Fame, ladies who had been on the frontier of cattle ranching, business, aviation and many other frontiers for women.  It was very good, well worth the small cost.

The next day, it was time to pack up and head south, so it was an early start, with Daz, Bec, Paul and Nat saying our goodbyes to Alice Springs and thanking her for being a good host.

We crossed the NT/SA Border.

It was a long day, with several fuel stops along the way.  We hit Coober Pedy, with some unfinished business to be had by Nat, with her shopping and also a fuel stop.

We spoke over the UHF about where we were going to stop, as it was about 3.30pm, when we left Coober Pedy.  Out camp the Camps 7 book as well as the ‘plasma’ wiki camps app on the tablet.  After much debate and watching the free camps as we travelled past them, we stopped at Bon Bon Rest area, which was about 70km North of Glendambo. There isn’t much there except for a toilet and flat ground, which was quite open.

When we stopped, the sun was setting, with the wind blowing with some force.  We all thought the wind would lessen, as night fall approached, but it didn’t.  A quick dinner, noodle cups, washed down with a few beers, saw Dazza, paul and myself up on my camper, taking the sun roof off, as the wind had increased in speed and the sun roof was like a sail, dragging the tent.  A few more pegs in the ground, but still the wind increased in strength. 

Dazza, then told me he was unhitching and moving his patrol in front of his tent, trying to deflect the wind.  I did the same and then started tying ropes from the tent to the bull bar and roof rack, in an attempt to stop the wind blowing it away.  Both Dazza and I looked at one and other, saying,’that’s the bext we can do.”  Mean while, Paul had opened all his windows in his camper, to let the wind blow right through, except to say the dust and dirt that was being blow up from the rest area.

I climbed into bed with Deb and the girls.  They were all fairly scared with the wind blowing hard.  Deb thought the ribs (stays which hold up the tent) were going to pull out, sending the tent flying of the tent.  I assured her it was not going to happen. 

These are the morning after shots.



It was a long night, with the wind settling before morning.  We all woke, looking somewhat tired. A quick pack up and we headed for Glendambo, where it was bacon and eggs rolls for us, followed by some ordinary coffee.

We continued south on the Stuart Highway, towards Port Augusta, with a short stop off in Woomera. I had always wanted to visit Woomera and see some of the space craft/rockets that were used out here in the 50's, 60's & 70's.  I wish we could have seen some of the stuff, that is still prohibited.





We continued on to Port Augusta, which looked like a nice town, we had left the dryness behind and it opened up onto the Spencer Gulf.  Nat found a fish and chips shop, which we headed for.  Fish and chips for all, except Deb had a chicko roll.  Down to the edge of the Spencer Gulf, we ate lunch and talk about where to next, as it was either going to be North East to Broken Hill or East to Renmark.

It was decided to head for Broken Hill, so off towards Petersborough, we headed.  Petersborough is an old Steam Train area, between Port Augusta and Broken Hill.  As we travelled across the hills, both Deb and commented how beautiful the area was.  The area had recently had some good rain, with the crops and farm animals doing very well.

We found another free camp on the northern edge of Petersborough, arriving about 4.30pm.   This free camp was totoally the opposite to Bon Bon, it was sheltered, with trees and grass.  There were a few other campers, but it didn’t feel crowded.

Before we started this trip, our research had indicated, the weather would be very cold over night and warm during the day, well this was the opposite to what we had encounted until now.  The cold weather clothes, including beanies, jackets, scarves and gloves had been packed away, but as the sun slowly went down, it become clear, it was going to be a cold night.  Each family scambled to get all of the cold clothes out of bags, so we stayed warm.

Nat was the first to come out of her tent, dressed in long tights, jacket, scarf, beanie and gloves.  It was a sight to behold, but it was not long before most of the others, were wearing similar clothes.

It was early to bed that night due to the coldness.  I had left a thermometer on the spare tyre and the next morning, the dew was frozen, with the temperature reading -1.3c.  It had been the coldest night thus far.

Again, another quick pack up, toilet stop back in Petersborough and we continued our trip to Broken Hill.

We crossed the SA/NSW.




We did the usual tourist thing in Broken Hill, with a few photographs from the top of one of the mines, with the kids sitting a large bench seat.




Nat found a great little camp, call Penrose Park.  Penrose is on the edge of Silverton, which is about 20 minutes north west of Broken Hill.  Penrose Park was first used in 1937, when it was established by BHP, then the sole minning company in Broken Hill, for its employees to relax on days off.  Penrose Park comprised a 6 tennis courts, a large oval, another large arena, which was used for cycling, as well as a large number of sheltered area’s.  Employees would catch open train carriages from Broken Hill to Penrose Park, where they would disembark and relax with their families on their days off.

These days, we found Penrose Park to be well worth stopping are.  It covers and area about 127 acres.  There were quiet a lot of camper trailer, caravans and tents at the park, but you never felt crowded.  The toilet block and showers were great, as well as the laundry has the girls found out.

The host of Penrose Park also keeps orphaned animals, including, goats, horses, numerous birds, including Jack the Corella, who dances and may also let loose with a word or two.

It was a great few nights spent at Penrose Park and I would recommend it to anybody.  It was only $30 per night for a family of 4.

I had not been back here since we left in 1977.  I lived in Broken Hill for about 18 months, before moving to Dubbo.  I could recall the unit we lived in was near an oval, not far from Bourke Ward Public School, with a pub on a corner near by and an Army Reserve building close by. 

On our way in to Broken Hill, I was leading, I spotted Bourke Ward Public School and then the oval, turning left, saw a pub, an Army reserve building then an alley way.  Things were flooding back to me.  I said to Deb, up this alley way, turn right and there was the unit we lived in 36 years ago.  Very similar to what I had remembered of it when I was 6.  I was astonished, I could recall and then locate the unit.
Whilst at Penrose Park, we visited Silverton, which was a short drive away.  I was expecting a one building town, with not much to see.  Well, wasn’t I surprised, not only with the amount of historic building still standing, but the history of Silverton.

First stop, was the Silverton Café, which can be seen from the main road, with CAFÉ written on the roof.  Café to us meant Coffee, so that was it.

The Café was set out beautifully showing past ornaments and nic nacs.  Inside was even better with four rooms dedicated to different items, including old bottles, rabbit and dingo traps, photographs, dolls and many more things.  We had coffee here and found the its cost and the cost of other items on the menu very reasonably for were we were.




Right next door to the café was the famous MAD MAX museum, which had a small cost to enter.  This place will well worth the vist.  There is photographs and videos to be seen.  You could easly spend half a day here, reading about the Mad Max Films and viewing the some of the actual cars that were used in the film.  Highly recommended for a visit.


Next stop, was down to the Souvener shop, which was being guarded by ‘Dollar’ the donkey.  ON our way into town, we all were chating on the UHF about this donkey, which was standing in the middle of the road, during our chat, this voice came over the radio, indicating the donkey’s name was Dollar and he was friendly.  That voice belonged to the owner of the shop.

A short walk down the street, we came to the famous Silverton Hotel, which has been in many, many films and TV commercials.  Inside we walked and started reading the history of the hotel, as well as looking at the many photographs.  This is another great spot to stop and vist.


The owner of the hotel recommended going to the local gaol, as it was well worth a visit and so it was.  The gaol is set up, depicting the history of Silverton, as well as local artifacts. I found the gaol to be very good in showing how and why Silverton was placed on the map. 
    
We stayed two nights as Penrose Park and visting Broken Hill.  I found the town very nice and would come back to explore again, if we get the chance.

The day had arrived and we were going to do some big drives.  We headed East across the Barrier Highway, first stop was Willcania, then Cobar to fuel up, then onto a free camp, between Nevertire and Warren.  This camp was to be our last with the families we had been on this adventure with, as they were heading to Goondawindi and we were headed to Coffs Harbour for a few days.  The camp was nothing special, but very nice to share with our friends.  After the set up, it was beers, cheese and biscuits to be had, whilst the kids played dodge ball.  It was nice to chat about the best things we had encounted on the trip as well as the things we would do again.

The following morning, we all said our goodbyes, heading into Gilgandra and then up the Newell Highway, to Tamworth, Armidale, Ebor and down into Coffs Harbour for two nights.  This was a welcomed sight, as we had put in some big days driving.

Kings Canyon and the Gorges of West McDonald Ranges


It was a four hours drive to Kings Canyon from Yulara. It was a fairly easy drive on bitumen and some dirt road.

 We found KC, not as commercialised at Uluru.  A nice camping area, which overlooked the ranges. 
 It was a little disconcerting seeing two cats playing about 50 metres from our camps sight and about 30 minutes later a Dingo walked straight between our camper trailers, into the caravan park.

Next morning, we had bacon and eggs, before we set off on the Kings Creek walk, which was an easy walk following Kings Creek up into Kings Canyon.  A great morning was had by all. 




This little lizard was found beside the track, quite happy for us to take photographs of him.




After the walk, we chilled out at camp and discussed what was going to happen next.  It was suggested we move on, from here to Palm Valley, which is about 3 hours drive away, into Gorge Country. 

That night, we hit the local and only restaurant.  I tried the Kangaroo, which was very tender and flavoursome. Deb had a pumpkin falafel dish, which wasn’t too bad either.

Back to camp and we all started to get ready for the following morning, where we would head to Palm Valley.

The next morning, we were all up early as usual and started the pack up, which didn’t take too long. Camper trailers hitched up and off to Kings Canyon Servo for fuel. Diesel 2.33/L.  The most expensive fuel thus far, but we needed it.

We also got our permit to travel the Mereenie Road, which takes us across Aboriginal Land. The permit was $5.50 for a days travel.


We have noticed, since leaving Uluru and travelling towards Kings Canyon and then onto Palm Valley, there is more and more vegetation, which is green.  There are many wild flowers out, from Yellows, whites, blues and purples. 


We stopped on the side of the road for a rest, on our way to Palm valley.  I looked around to find a paddock full of yellow flowers, but on feeling them, they had a waxy, almost straw feel to them.  This waxy feel, allows them to survive in this harsh environment and to minimise their moisture loss.

We arrived at Palm Valley about lunch time, setting up camp.  The drive into Palm Valley was very beautiful, crossing the Finke River many times and driving between red ochre coloured cliffs.  There was no water in the river, except for a few small water holes. 

After camp was set up, we drove up to Cycad Valley, which incorporates Palm Valley as well.  The Red Cabbage Palms are the only ones in the world.  There are a number of stands of Palms and get their water from the sandstone, they grown in.  The gorges in which these palms and cycads grow, allow for a climate, where the plants don’t get dry, due to the ground water.








After the hour walk among the Palms, we headed back to camp and the kids went straight down to the small water hole behind us.  They played there, whilst the adults had a cold beer or three.



The camp ground has two communal fire pits.  On the way in we all collected some wood and now it was time for a fire.  It’s been several days since our last fire.

Around the fire were three German’s, who were over here on a holiday for 10 months.  They had already travelled the West coast from Perth to Darwin and were driving south to Adelaide.  It was interesting chatting to them about their travels in Australia.

There was also another couple from South Eastern Victoria and filled us in on their adventures over the last few weeks.

I decided to cook a damper for the first time on this trip.  So the usual, self-rising flour, salt, sugar and beer went into the mixture.  The camp over was warmed and in only 20 minutes we were  all eating hot damper with golden syrup.  Yummo.

The following day, we hit the road, this time without the trailers, to enter the Finke River Gorge, but prior to a bit of 4WD, we went into Hermansberg, which is an Aboriginal Community about 125 km from Alice Springs.  We went to the local shopping centre, where Deb and the girls picked up some fruit and veg, as we were all running out.  The store reminded me much of the Aboriginal Store at Bamaga, when we did the Cape York two years ago.  The people were nice and friendly, with kids running everywhere.

We drove a short distance to the track to read the sign, which indicated, extreme 4WD, which lit Dazza’s, Paul’s and my eye’s up.  Again it was another picturesque drive in, following the Finke River, which the track criss- crossed every few hundred metres.  We were headed for a place called Boggy Hole, which we heard was renowned for that reason, but it couldn’t be far from the truth.  On this trip, there was some soft sand and sharp rocks, but nothing the Patrols and the cruiser couldn’t handle. 

We had lunch overlooking the Finke River and then moved down to Boggy Hole, which was a 300 metre permanent stretch of water.  There were flocks of ducks as well as three black Swans swimming around.  We were also going to have a swim, but though better of it, as the water was murky and had a strange smell.



We spotted this crashed car just off the track.  I would like a 1$ for every burnt out/crashed/dumped vehicle we saw in SA or NT. I would have made a lot of money.

I had also read there were the ruins of an old police station somewhere around Boggy Hole, so we set out to find it, only to find it was on the other side of the river, with water in between us.  We could only sit and look at it from afar, as the track into the old police station was closed.   It would have been a harsh place to work back in the days.

We headed back to camp.  It was a very warm day and everybody was tired, with many having a little afternoon nap, with the other reading a book.  As the day got cooler, it was back down to the local water hole where the kids played in the waist deep water.

We moved on from Palm Valley to Ormiston Gorge, on the way we stopped at Gosse’s Bluff, which was a crater left by a meteor that struck the earth million years ago.  The colours in the hills made by the meteor were spectacular.

Thais is a crater thought to have been formed by the impact of an asteroid or comet approximately 142.5 million years ago

Picture of West McDonald Ranges, showing the different layers of rock, formed many millions of years ago.



We continued on and found ourselves at Ormiston Gorge.  As we drove through the small camping ground, we all realised there was not enough large spots for Camper trailers.  We were not sure if we were going to stay the night here, or move on somewhere else.

Ormiston Gorge has a kiosk, which managers the camping area, as well as supplying coffee, cold drinks etc.  The gentleman behind the counter spotted us and our vehicles.  Before we could say much more, he indicated there was a secret camping spot up behind the kiosk, away from the main camp ground.  This sounded promising, so we walked up to inspect the area.  It was just a rocky and dusty as the main camp ground, but a lot bigger.  It was actually the school camping area.  We decided to stay and quickly set up camp, before walking the short distance down to Ormiston Gorge for a swim.

The water in the gorge looking very inviting, with the lids jumping in first.  After a short standoff, I got in.  Let me tell you, it was quite cold, but very refreshing, considering the temperatures were getting to the mid to high 30’s

We all spent the afternoon at the gorge having a great time, chilling out, and people watching.







That afternoon an Alice Springs arcapulla group were singing in the gorge.  The group comprised about 30 singers, with a conductor.  The music sound mainly African, with some Austrian thrown in.  There were 200-300 people watching from the river bed.

The conductor, above, was a character really enjoyed watching his emotions and facial expressions.



This was the group of singers.




This guy played along with the group and was fantastic.


 The following day, we packed up and headed for Ellery Gorge – Big hole, which we were going to camp at.  Once again, we found the camp ground very small and this time no camps spots for us, so we decide to have a swim in the gorge and then head to Alice Springs for two nights, to charge the batteries on 240 volt power.

Ellery Gorge is a great spot. A large round gorge, with a narrow corridor constructed of towering stone walls running towards the back of the gorge into a smaller water hole.

The kids didn’t want to get in this time as it was very cold, but Dazza, Paul and myself just ran and jumped.  It was really cold.  There was a large sand bank in the middle, which we swam out to.  My ankles and legs were numb. We stood there for a short time, before Melissa and the other kids joined us, before they turned around and swam back because it was so cold.
Ellery Gorge - Big hole.

Bec and Nat swam out to the sand bank and we then all swam through the narrows to the other end.  It was freezing.  We (Dazza, Paul, Bec, Nat, Melissa and I) all got to the other end wondering how we got there and we had to swim back. 


That is a long way out - my feet, legs and other parts of my body were numb.



High five from Liss for swimming all the way to the other end and back.

Ellery Gorge was well worth the visit and a swim.